Majhphant - 3, Parbat, Nepal

Vinayak Jaya Malla ~ My Story

Certified by the ​International Federation of Mountain Guides Association (IFMGA/UIAGM), I have had an intimate relationship with the Himlayas since growing up in a farming family in the foothills of the ​Dhaulagiri and Nilgiri mountain ranges of mid-western Nepal.

From the time I decided to pursue a career in mountaineering, I have dedicated myself to taking my profession to the highest level. Beginning as a porter, self-motivation and personal initiative led me to become a trekking guide before pursuing my IFMGA certification. I have since become a Mountain Leader Instructor, Examiner and am trained in Helicopter Long Line Rescue.

Excelling as a high altitude freelance guide with a strength as a technical climber, I have led successful expeditions on Everest (8 848 m), Lhotse (​8 516 m)​, Manaslu (8 156 m), Ama Dablam (6 812 m) and an abundance of other Himalayan peaks.

My route towards achieving the highest international guiding qualification has included a trail from being a successful elite sport climbing competitor to qualifications in route setting and judging.

With a passion to develop ice and sport climbing in Nepal, I founded the Nepal Climbing Team (NCT). While serving as president of the NCT and continuing to lead expeditions, I instruct for the Nepal Mountaineering Association, Nepal Mountaineering Instructors’ Association, Nepal ​Mountain Guides Association​, and the Nepal Police Rescue. I along with the NCT executive team have launched an annual international Nepal Ice Climbing Festival. Beyond the borders of Nepal, I have experience climbing in the European Alps as well as India where I am a member and volunteer instructor with the ​International Federation for Climbing and Mountaineering.

Come follow along the climbs and peaks of my story ​on ​Instagram

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