According to Ungdi Tshiring Sherpa of the Nepal Mountain Academy, the first group reached the summit today, May 15. Operating under the Ministry of Culture, Tourism, and Civil Aviation, the academy has been instrumental in preparing the next generation of Nepali mountaineers.

The summit team consisted of students, instructors, government officials, and experienced climbing guides. The members of the first summit group include:

• Pasang Kidar Sherpa – Chief Instructor and IFMGA Certified Mountain Guide

• Anil Kiratee – Executive Director and Field Supervisor (Under-Secretary, Ministry of Culture, Tourism, and Civil Aviation)

• Bibek Shakha – Student, Team Leader

• Alexander Lama – Student

• Bikram Lama – Student

• John Bipra – Student

• Prakash Gurung – Student

• Prakash Rijal – Student

• Sanjiv KC – Student

• Nhuzza Manandhar – Photographer

• Phurba Sarki Sherpa – Climbing Guide

• Lakpa Dorjee Sherpa – Climbing Guide

• Chhewang Sherpa – Climbing Guide

The Himlung Himal expedition is part of the academy’s hands-on mountaineering training program, designed to provide students with real-world experience in high-altitude environments. Located in the remote Manaslu region of Nepal, Himlung Himal is known for its technical climbing challenges and extreme weather conditions, making it an ideal training ground for aspiring climbers.

Sherpa emphasized that the successful ascent highlights the capabilities of Nepal’s emerging generation of mountaineers and reinforces the nation’s leadership in high-altitude climbing education. Additional summits and activities under the academy’s 2025 climbing program are expected in the coming weeks.

Kathmandu, October 13. World record-holding IFMGA/UIAGM and NNMGA guide Chhiring Sherpa has successfully completed the ascent of all 14 of the world’s highest peaks after summiting Mount Cho Oyu on Monday morning (October 13).

Chhiring reached the summit of the world’s sixth-highest mountain, Cho Oyu, at 7:45 a.m. (China time). With this latest climb, he has officially completed all 14 peaks above 8,000 meters — a milestone achieved by only a few mountaineers worldwide, he shared on social media.

Chhiring Sherpa is a Managing Director and Expedition Leader at Expedition Base.com.

Originally from the Makalu region of Nepal, he earned his international mountain guide certification in 2016, which allows him to guide professionally across the globe.

A versatile and accomplished climber, Chhiring made headlines in 2023 by setting a speed ascent record on Mount K2, reaching the summit in an astonishing 12 hours and 20 minutes. In the same year, he achieved another remarkable feat by summiting four 8,000-meter peaks within just 24 days in Pakistan.

Chhiring first gained recognition in 2014, becoming one of Nepal’s youngest climbers to summit K2. Beyond his expedition successes, he has also been deeply involved in mountain education and training, serving as a lead instructor at the Alex Lowe Charitable Foundation’s Khumbu Climbing Center, teaching base mountaineering courses organized by the Nepal Mountaineering Instructors Association (NMIA), and instructing mountaineering skills in New Zealand.

His international experience includes guiding in the Rocky Mountains of Australia, and his athletic achievements include winning first place in the National Open Climbing Competition (2014) and second place in the national speed climbing event the same year.

Known for his professionalism, dedication, and honesty, Chhiring Sherpa is widely regarded as one of Nepal’s most skilled and responsible expedition leaders.

Major Expeditions and Summits by Chhiring Sherpa

• Mount Everest (8,848m, Nepal Side) – 3 times (2012, 2016, 2022)

• K2 (8,611m) – 3 times (2014, 2022, 2023; Speed Ascent in 12 hrs 20 min, 2023)

• Kangchenjunga (8,586m) – 2 times (2018, 2022)

• Lhotse (8,516m) – 1 time (2013)

• Makalu (8,463m) – 1 time (2019)

• Cho Oyu (8,188m) – 1 time (2014; completed 14 peaks with latest summit, 2025)

• Dhaulagiri (8,167m) – 1 time (2022)

• Annapurna I (8,091m) – 1 time (2021)

• Nanga Parbat (8,126m) – 1 time (2023)

• Gasherbrum I (8,080m) – 1 time (2023)

• Gasherbrum II (8,035m) – 1 time (2023)

• Broad Peak (8,051m) – 1 time (2023)

• Ama Dablam (6,812m) – 7 times

• Mt. Cook / Aoraki (3,724m, New Zealand) – 2 times (2017)

• Mt. Aspiring (3,033m, New Zealand) – 4 times

Kathmandu, October 23. From the steep trails of Solukhumbu to the summits of the world’s highest peaks, IFMGA mountain guide Abiral Rai has built a career defined by grit, passion, and purpose. Today, he stands at the center of one of mountaineering’s most inspiring partnerships—guiding Hari Budha Magar, the double above-knee amputee climber who is rewriting global climbing history through his Seven Summits quest.

Their collaboration began during Hari’s 2023 Mount Everest expedition, where Abiral worked as the official photographer and videographer. What started as a professional role soon evolved into a partnership grounded in mutual respect, resilience, and a shared dream—to conquer the Seven Summits, the highest peaks on each continent.

In February 2025, the duo successfully summited Aconcagua in Argentina, followed by Carstensz Pyramid in Indonesia in October 2025. Their next and final challenge will take them to the icy wilderness of Antarctica, where they plan to climb Mount Vinson between December 2025 and January 2026—a climb that will complete Hari Budha Magar’s historic Seven Summits journey. Abiral will once again be a vital part of the expedition as both guide and documentarian.

From Solukhumbu to the World’s Highest Peaks

Born and raised in Solukhumbu, the heartland of the Himalayas, Abiral grew up surrounded by mountains and steeped in the traditions of mountain life. As a teenager, he began working as a seasonal porter in the Everest region, carrying loads for trekkers and climbers. That early exposure ignited a lifelong passion for the mountains and a determination to climb them himself.

Abiral began his professional journey in 2010, gradually advancing through every stage of the mountaineering profession—from porter and kitchen helper to trekking cook, assistant guide, and eventually, climbing guide. His dedication culminated in 2019 when he earned his Diploma in Mountaineering, achieving the prestigious IFMGA certification, one of the highest international standards for mountain guides. In 2021, he added a Mountaineering Instructor Certification, further solidifying his expertise.

Climbing Achievements

Abiral’s first guided ascent was Island Peak, marking the start of an impressive career on Himalayan summits. To date, he has climbed Island Peak more than 55 times, Lobuche Peak 25 times, and Mera Peak 15 times. His first 7,000-meter summit was Baruntse, followed by successful ascents of Ama Dablam and Himlung Himal.

He first reached the top of Mount Everest in 2014, returning for additional summits in later years, including 2022, for a total of three Everest summits. He has also climbed two other 8,000-meter giants—Lhotse and Manaslu—establishing himself as one of Nepal’s most accomplished high-altitude guides.

He is the mountaineering pioneer of the Rai community and first person certified international mountain guide of the Rai community.

International Mountaineering Experience

Abiral’s mountaineering experience extends far beyond Nepal. He has climbed in the European Alps, including peaks in France, Italy, and Switzerland, and in Central Asia, where he summited Peak Lenin and several mountains in China’s Pamir Range, including Muztagh Ata (Kuksya Peak).

His international career reached new heights in 2025 with successful climbs of Aconcagua in South America and Carstensz Pyramid in Oceania—both alongside Hari Budha Magar as part of the Seven Summits project.

Pride and Inspiration

Abiral Rai holds a special place in Nepal’s mountaineering community. He is the first Everest summiteer from the Thulung Rai community and the first internationally certified IFMGA guide and NNMGA diploma holder from the Rai community in eastern Nepal. His journey from a teenage porter in Solukhumbu to an internationally recognized mountain guide embodies the perseverance and dedication that define the spirit of the Himalayas.

As Hari Budha Magar’s Seven Summits dream nears its final chapter, Abiral remains at his side—not just as a guide and photographer, but as a symbol of Nepal’s resilience, courage, and excellence in mountaineering. Together, they are not only climbing mountains—they are making history and inspiring the world.

Kathmandu, October 3. Renowned Nepali mountaineer and certified UIAGM/IFMGA/NNMGA guide Mingma Gyalje Sherpa, better known as Mingma G, has reached the summit of Mount Manaslu (8,163m) without supplemental oxygen, marking his third ascent of the peak without supplemental oxygen and adding another milestone to his distinguished career.

This climb marked his fourth successful ascent of Manaslu’s true main summit. “In 2021, I led a team to the true main summit of Manaslu, and from that point, the history of this mountain changed. That climb was with supplemental oxygen, but my ascents in 2023, 2024, and now 2025 were all without oxygen,” Mingma said.

Before 2021, Mingma G had summited Manaslu in 2009, 2011, 2016, and 2018 without supplemental oxygen, but those climbs stopped at the fore-summit—long mistaken for the highest point. Since the correction, climbers aiming to complete the 14 Peaks challenge are required to stand on Manaslu’s true main summit.

“Anyone completing all 14 peaks must stand on the true main summits,” Mingma shared. “That’s why many climbers are repeating Manaslu to make their record complete.”

Previously, Sherpa made history as the first Nepali mountaineer to summit all 14 of the world’s highest peaks without supplemental oxygen — a feat that ranks him among the most elite climbers in history. He is also the Managing Director of Imagine Nepal Trek and Expeditions.

Kathmandu, October 6. A Korean climber has died in the Mera Peak region following deteriorating weather conditions. According to Nepal National Mountain Guide Association

(NNMGA) guide and Nepal Mountaineering Association (NMA) rescue coordinator Pasang Kaji Sherpa, the body was brought to Kathmandu today.

The deceased has been identified as 46-year-old Taejun Park of South Korea. His body was recovered from around 6,000 meters on Mera Peak and airlifted to Lukla early Monday morning. After a postmortem examination in Lukla, the body was flown to Kathmandu.

Park’s Sherpa guide was reported to be safe, Sherpa confirmed.

At the initiative of the Nepal Mountaineering Association (NMA), International Federation of Mountain Guide Association (IFMGA)/NNMGA mountain guides Riten Tashi Sherpa and Ashish Gurung were deployed to the Mera Peak region for the search and rescue operation.

According to Sherpa, Park and his guide had begun their summit push for Mera Peak at around 3 a.m. on October 4.