KATHMANDU: Successful ascents of two virgin peaks have earned at least four Nepali climbers a nomination for the coveted Piolets d’Or awards this year.

Vinayak Jaya Malla, Pasang Kami Sherpa, and Pasang Rinzee Sherpa have been nominated for the Piolets d’Or 2024 for their first ascent of Patrasi I (6,450m). They climbed via the Northwest Ridge over Patrasi II in the remote Kanjiroba Himal. Separately, Pasang Kidar Sherpa (Rolwaling, Nepal) and Danika Gilbert (Colorado, USA) have been nominated for establishing a new alpine-style route on the NW ridge of Beding Go (6,125m) in the Gaurishankar range.

Under the “Light and Fast” project, the team of Malla, Pasang Kami Sherpa, and Pasang Rinzee Sherpa scaled the 6,450-meter peak on June 12, 2024. They completed their alpine-style climb without fixed ropes or additional support.

“It’s a proud moment for us,” said Pasang Rinzee upon hearing the news. “This nomination stands as a testament to the strength, skill, and spirit of Nepali alpinism.”

“The expedition faced numerous challenges, including rough weather, heavy snowfall, and loose rocks,” Sherpa recounted. “Despite these obstacles, we persevered, demonstrating our skill and resilience on this untapped mountain. The climb was tough and technical, different from the fixed-rope climbing we are used to. This kind of technical climbing brings the real joy of mountaineering.”

Malla, an IFMGA-certified mountain guide, along with Rinzee and Kami, both IFMGA aspirant guides, climbed the peak with support from the Mount Everest Foundation (MEF). Since its inception in 1955 in the United Kingdom, the MEF has provided funds to over 2,000 expeditions in remote locations and to scientists researching high-altitude medicine, glaciology, and climate change.

All three climbers have extensive mountaineering experience both in Nepal and abroad. Vinayak Jaya Malla has summited Everest five times and led successful expeditions on Lhotse, Manaslu, and Ama Dablam. He is also a Mountain Leader Instructor, Examiner, and is trained in Helicopter Long Line Rescue. Pasang Kami Sherpa has ten Everest summits, and Pasang Rinzee Sherpa has two.

On October 13, 2024, Pasang Kidar Sherpa and Danika Gilbert teamed up to climb the northwest ridge of Beding Go (6,125m), which lies on the Nepal-Tibet frontier east of Gaurishankar (7,134m). Pasang Kidar, the owner of Khangri Treks, is one of only 14 IFMGA guides from the Rolwaling valley. The duo completed an alpine-style ascent of this previously unclimbed ridge from a 5,100m high camp at the head of the Chhimugolche River, west of Beding village. It took them one day to ascend steep alpine tundra from Beding to a base camp at 4,875m in an area of talus—a site previously used by several parties attempting Dolma Kang (6,332m).

The Piolets d’Or is considered the Oscars of mountaineering. The awards ceremony will take place in San Martino di Castrozza in the Italian Dolomites from December 9-12, 2025.

Earlier, record-holding climber Mingma G from Imagine Nepal Treks was nominated for the awards twice – for scaling Bamongo peak in 2013 and Chobuje in 2015. Likewise, Pasang Kidar, Dawa Yangzum Sherpa, Dawa Gyalje Sherpa, and Nima Tenji Sherpa were nominated for the awards in 2018 for their first ascent of Langdung peak.