Published on December 10, 2025
Oct 23, 2025
Kathmandu, October 23. From the steep trails of Solukhumbu to the summits of the world’s highest peaks, IFMGA mountain guide Abiral Rai has built a career defined by grit, passion, and purpose. Today, he stands at the center of one of mountaineering’s most inspiring partnerships—guiding Hari Budha Magar, the double above-knee amputee climber who is rewriting global climbing history through his Seven Summits quest.
Their collaboration began during Hari’s 2023 Mount Everest expedition, where Abiral worked as the official photographer and videographer. What started as a professional role soon evolved into a partnership grounded in mutual respect, resilience, and a shared dream—to conquer the Seven Summits, the highest peaks on each continent.
In February 2025, the duo successfully summited Aconcagua in Argentina, followed by Carstensz Pyramid in Indonesia in October 2025. Their next and final challenge will take them to the icy wilderness of Antarctica, where they plan to climb Mount Vinson between December 2025 and January 2026—a climb that will complete Hari Budha Magar’s historic Seven Summits journey. Abiral will once again be a vital part of the expedition as both guide and documentarian.
From Solukhumbu to the World’s Highest Peaks
Born and raised in Solukhumbu, the heartland of the Himalayas, Abiral grew up surrounded by mountains and steeped in the traditions of mountain life. As a teenager, he began working as a seasonal porter in the Everest region, carrying loads for trekkers and climbers. That early exposure ignited a lifelong passion for the mountains and a determination to climb them himself.
Abiral began his professional journey in 2010, gradually advancing through every stage of the mountaineering profession—from porter and kitchen helper to trekking cook, assistant guide, and eventually, climbing guide. His dedication culminated in 2019 when he earned his Diploma in Mountaineering, achieving the prestigious IFMGA certification, one of the highest international standards for mountain guides. In 2021, he added a Mountaineering Instructor Certification, further solidifying his expertise.
Climbing Achievements
Abiral’s first guided ascent was Island Peak, marking the start of an impressive career on Himalayan summits. To date, he has climbed Island Peak more than 55 times, Lobuche Peak 25 times, and Mera Peak 15 times. His first 7,000-meter summit was Baruntse, followed by successful ascents of Ama Dablam and Himlung Himal.
He first reached the top of Mount Everest in 2014, returning for additional summits in later years, including 2022, for a total of three Everest summits. He has also climbed two other 8,000-meter giants—Lhotse and Manaslu—establishing himself as one of Nepal’s most accomplished high-altitude guides.
He is the mountaineering pioneer of the Rai community and first person certified international mountain guide of the Rai community.
International Mountaineering Experience
Abiral’s mountaineering experience extends far beyond Nepal. He has climbed in the European Alps, including peaks in France, Italy, and Switzerland, and in Central Asia, where he summited Peak Lenin and several mountains in China’s Pamir Range, including Muztagh Ata (Kuksya Peak).
His international career reached new heights in 2025 with successful climbs of Aconcagua in South America and Carstensz Pyramid in Oceania—both alongside Hari Budha Magar as part of the Seven Summits project.
Pride and Inspiration
Abiral Rai holds a special place in Nepal’s mountaineering community. He is the first Everest summiteer from the Thulung Rai community and the first internationally certified IFMGA guide and NNMGA diploma holder from the Rai community in eastern Nepal. His journey from a teenage porter in Solukhumbu to an internationally recognized mountain guide embodies the perseverance and dedication that define the spirit of the Himalayas.
As Hari Budha Magar’s Seven Summits dream nears its final chapter, Abiral remains at his side—not just as a guide and photographer, but as a symbol of Nepal’s resilience, courage, and excellence in mountaineering. Together, they are not only climbing mountains—they are making history and inspiring the world.
