Published on January 24, 2026
KATHMANDU: An all-Nepali team of mountaineering guides has successfully completed the first-ever winter ascent of three virgin peaks—Ghyun I (6,099m), Ghyun II (6,029m) and Ghyun III (6,027m)—in the remote Ghyun Himal range of Upper Mustang.
According to Seven Summit Treks (SST), the historic ascent was achieved on January 12, marking the world’s first winter summits of the three previously unclimbed peaks. The expedition was jointly organised by SST and 14 Peaks Expedition.
The team was led by IFMGA guide Pasang Kaji (PK) Sherpa, along with aspirant guides Prem Magar and Bikram Karki, and support climber Chhewang Sherpa.
PK Sherpa said the team had initially planned to establish a base camp by opening a new route from Ghar Gumba. However, due to challenging terrain, they diverted westward, crossed the Kekepla Pass, and set up a high camp at 5,665 metres without establishing a conventional base camp.
The summit push began around 2:00 am on January 12 via a northern gully and south ridge. The route was described as technically demanding, dominated by loose and unstable boulders with minimal snow cover, according to the SST.
The climbers first summited Ghyun I at 5:40 am, traversed to the northwest col to reach Ghyun III at 9:20 am, and finally ascended Ghyun II at 12:45 pm before descending safely to high camp via the southeast face.
Seven Summit Treks hailed the achievement as a major milestone in Nepali-led winter mountaineering and congratulated the team for opening a new chapter in exploration in Upper Mustang.